There’s been a change of plans. Basildon Park–the great house used as Netherfield in 2005’s P&P–is closed to visitors. Someone’s filming there.
So, we’re going to Salisbury first. The cathedral, with the tallest spire in England, is the primary draw. But in line with our tour’s theme, Salisbury is the location of Mompesson House, the interior (and exterior) of which was filmed as Mrs. Jenning’s home in the 1995 Sense and Sensibility. I think this definitely was an upgrade as a substitute destination.
Salisbury Cathedral
First stop: the cathedral itself.
A couple of us were in the vicinity when a guided tour of cathedral began. The photos above are some of the highlights seen as we were guided along the north aisle of the nave, rounded the choir and apse and then returned along the south aisle to the south transept–where there was displayed a facsimile of the Magna Carta.
The cathedral is home to the best preserved of only four surviving Magna Carta documents from 1215. It is kept in the cathedral’s Chapter House, which was undergoing renovations when we visited. Hence, a “fake” Magna Carta was made available for viewing in the transept.
As it was approaching our meeting time at the Mompesson House, I left the guided tour to get a glimpse of the faux Magna Carta. Meh. I guess knowing it’s not the original lessened the impact such a world-changing document should have had. I left the cathedral after confirming that I could return later with my admissions ticket.
Mompesson House
The Mompesson House stood in for Mrs. Jenning’s residence in the 1995 film version of Sense and Sensibility. (The Emma Thomson one.)
Not only the exterior (left) but the Entrance Hall, the Dining Room, the large (red) Drawing Room, the Green Room and the SE bedroom were all used in the film.
When our time at the Mompesson House was over, we were set free in Salisbury to forage for sustenance, shop for tchotchkes or choose our own diversions. I returned to the cathedral to complete the tour circuit and enjoy a hot beverage (tea, of course) before rejoining our group and returning to the motor coach for our final destination.
Steventon
Birthplace of Jane Austen
On our last day and our last stop, we arrived at Steventon, the cradle of Jane’s genius.
(You might have noticed that we’ve been traveling backwards in time as we visit pivotal places in Jane’s life.)
While a few other public buildings are still standing, the rectory where she was born and lived for the first 26 years of her life no longer exists. It was demolished and replaced with a newer rectory across the road and the original site is now an open field. But the church where her father served as vicar still stands and is still used as such.
A retired vicar from the parish, Michael, spoke to us about the church, its history and what can be speculated about how it was when Jane was a member of the congregation.
Recent renovations have restored some of the William Morris style decoration to the chancel arch and exposed some medieval wall paintings. A Saxon cross shaft found nearby at Steventon Manor has been donated to the church as well.
While we wandered the church, enjoying coffee and biscuits provided by some of the parishioners, I saw a small fireplace that had been discussed during our lecture on the church’s history. I picked up a little card stuck in the grill and, OMG, our regional chapter was the donor! It was like finding a piece of home. (Why there was a tea cup and saucers behind the grill is a mystery.)
Another “find” was that one of the women serving refreshments was originally from Michigan, as I discovered when she me asked where I was from. “I married a Brit,” she answered in anticipation of my next question. “He worked for IBM.”
Another church enhancement funded by a contribution from JASNA was the removal, tuning and reinstallation of the three church bells. Of course, I was itching to give them a tug…and did after a member of the church council sanctioned it with a “Go ahead.” It was not as easy as I thought and she had to explain how “professional” bell-ringers did it. Once mastered, the sound was so sweet.
And with those harmonious chimes, our tour is completed.
We gathered one last time as a group at the Côte brasserie for a farewell dinner before returning to the hotel and preparing for departure in the morning.
8,640S/4.1M
Dave In Austenland 