It was a cathedral day today–Winchester Cathedral.
“Oh-bo-de-oh-do!”
-The New Vaudeville Band
But first, we spent a few moments in quiet reflection as we stood before the house where Jane Austen passed away in 1817. Our tour director, Marion, read one of Jane’s prayers to solemnize the moment.
Then…off to her grave in the Cathedral!
Upon entering the building, we were met by one of the deacons and escorted to the final resting place of our dear Jane. There, the deacon performed a short memorial service, with each of us placing a single pink carnation on her grave before communally reciting The Lord’s Prayer.
Afterwards, the flowers were gathered, vased and placed in front of the brass plaque erected by her nephew around 1870.
Us and our cameras were then let loose in the cathedral.
After an hour or so wandering the cathedral, we were free to explore Winchester the city. As it was Saturday, the pedestrian-only section of High Street was crowded with people, food kiosks and stalls. In all the hubbub, I forgot that we were on our own for lunch today and that this free time was provided to get sustenance as well as souvenirs. (Fortunately, my very kind coach-mate, Penelope, shared her scone and chocolate bar with me so I wasn’t about to faint from hunger.)
Boarding the motor coach, we were driven to the Hampshire Cultural Trust for a lecture by Louise West, the former curator of Jane Austen’s house. The Hampshire Cultural Trust is an independent charity established to create inspirational cultural experiences in Hampshire that enrich and transform lives by providing great arts, heritage, museums and creative programming.
The facility where we met was one of a cluster of buildings, storage containers and tents used primarily for the warehousing, repairing and maintaining of historic artifacts. Our visit was geared towards the heritage mission of the Hampshire Trust with a decidedly Austen bent.
To illustrate Ms. West’s lecture, Regency era clothing and household articles had been pulled from the Trust’s collection. After the talk, half of our group was given a tour of one of the clothing storage facilities while th’other half were given a chance to more closely examine-without-touching the displayed clothing and objects. Then, the groups exchanged places.
The highlight for the group was a gold silk pelisse–a woman’s long coat with long sleeves and a front opening–that had been owned by Jane herself.
When we had all re-assembled in the lecture room, tea, cake and conversation were served before we thanked and bid farewell to our gracious hosts.
After returning to the hotel to get my bearings, I walked back into Winchester to the top of High Street and the location of the Great Hall. The draw, you ask? King Arthur’s Round Table!
The Great Hall is the only remaining building from the many iterations of Winchester castles that have existed here since the time of William the Conqueror. Hanging high up on one of its inner walls is the large, round wooden table purported to have been King Arthur’s.
Of course, the table has been carbon-dated to the 1200’s, many centuries after the time of any historic “Arthur”. Also the painting of the table is credited to King Henry VIII who commissioned it after visiting Winchester. (Plus Henry’s youthful visage was used for King Arthur’s face!) But for someone who couldn’t get his hands on Arthurian literature fast enough as a young man (me!), this sham was an acceptable con emotionally.
Of course, there was more to the Great Hall:
- A massive statue of a seated Queen Victoria–a rarity, apparently, for depicting her sitting.
- A long hallway lined with pictures, portraits and plans that told the story of the castles and the Great Hall.
- The Queen Elenor Garden: an herbal garden that, at this time of year, was just greening. How it must look when in full bloom.
- (Not shown) A massive pair of stainless steel “art” doors honoring the Prince & Princess of Wales (before their gathering storm). The key to open said doors was fashioned in the shape of a “W” to honor their son William.
After the Great Hall, I sought out a grocery store to purchase a light supper (Pringles and a sandwich) and returned to the hotel for the evening.
12,620S/6.0M
Dave In Austenland 