As an aside, there was a beautiful exchange of dialogue over breakfast regarding how, and I quote Penelope, "the curtain is being lifted" on so many supposedly sacrosanct "traditions" that have been white-washed (literally) of their less-savory truths. The American vs. the Canadian Thanksgiving was cited as an example. But what I found particularly heartening was the response to the offhanded comment: "...and let's not get into Florida!" The collective groan that emanated from the table over the state of that state was so comforting from a group that represented all areas of the States plus Canada.
Today was devoted to Pemberley II, also known as the Chatsworth House, used in the 2005 Kyra Knightley/Matthew Macfadyen version of Pride and Prejudice.
Our journey took us into the hills and dales of the Peak District, a verdant area blanketed with stone fence-enclosed fields covering the accessible landscape pierced by sudden, dramatic upheavals in elevation standing stark against the gray-flannel sky. Ever-present flocks of sheep grazed unperturbed by our intrusive motor coach as it wound up, down and around their pastures.
Politically, the roads wove in and out of Stratfordshire and Devonshire counties–we’d cross a small stream and it would be announced that we are now in such-and-such county…until passing the next border landmark–as we headed for Chatsworth House.
But first, we made a brief stop in the little village of Longnor (in Staffordshire) to view and walk historic Chapel Street, featured as the location of the Lambton Inn for the 1995 P&P series. Cinematically, the stone houses lining the narrow cobblestone street provided the ideal backdrop for the fictional Derbyshire village of Lambton. (Of course, the interior shots were done elsewhere.)
The stop also gave Marion, our tour guide, the opportunity to take a group photo.
Chatsworth House
Off we go, back into Devonshire and the Chatsworth House and Gardens. The property is extensive and we were “on the clock” with three 2-hour blocks of time in which to:
- explore the extensive gardens and features (10:30)
- tour the impressive house and collections (12:30)
- devour both a delicious afternoon tea (today’s dinner) and a fascinating talk from a member of The Midlands JAS group (2:30)
First item on the agenda was to explore the extensive gardens. Having undergone several transformations over the centuries–including one by Lancelot “Capability” Brown–I found them to be a highly-designed adult outdoor playground with a cacophony of sights and sounds vying for attention!
The Cascade: a waterfall where each “step” is of a different design so that the noise made by the falling water changes at each drop.
The Rockery: huge rocks and deep gorges with paths weaving in and out.
The Maze: a puzzle of shrubbery challenging you to reach the center, climb to the top and survey your conquest.
The Serpentine Walk: unfortunately closed, the sculpted shrubbery undulated into the distance.
There was more but we had timed tickets for entry to the house itself at 12:30 PM, so off I went.
Top o’ the list of must-see’s were two rooms used in the ’05 Pride & Prejudice: the main staircase and the sculpture gallery (sans the faux Darcy bust (right) made for the film and which is on displayed in the gift shop…with many copies available for purchase in variety of sizes!)
Speaking of marble busts, I had a fascinating conversation with the docent in the sculpture gallery–the last room of the tour before exiting, Disney-style, into the gift shop. She pointed out some of the more interesting works that had been commissioned by the bachelor William Spencer Cavendish, the 6th Duke of Devonshire, who had the gallery added to Chatsworth House when the formalized displaying of such collections was in vogue. However, since all the best original Greco-Roman statuary had been snapped up by other wealthy collectors, he commissioned entirely new works from Italian sculptors that were not so much copies of originals but were sculpted anew in the spirit of the classics.
She explained how he would have elaborate gatherings–he loved to entertain–where the guests, after drinks, music and dinner, would ultimately find themselves in this room, lit with torches and candles whose flickering light created the illusion of movement amongst the sculptured figures.
She also had me return to look more closely at the sleeping Endymion to notice that the prolific Greek had a “suntan” on his face and arm due to colored “flaws” in the white marble.
But, we were on a timetable. I thanked her and left for our afternoon tea and talk in what had once been the estate’s stables.
OMG. As this was my first-ever afternoon tea, I was very excited–and hoped it would prepare me for our scheduled “High Tea” later in the week when we are in Bath.
After receiving one’s tea and an amuse-bouche, three three-tiered serving trays were brought to the table.With each to be shared by three people, there was a bottom layer of finger sandwiches, a middle layer of savory & sweet scones (clotted cream on the side) and a top layer laden with dessert options.
There was not a middling morsel of food in the bunch–it was all fantastic.
But what was even more remarkable (than the food) was our speaker Emma Westwood. Her topic was Corsets, Cravats and Celluloid: Cinematic Controversy which compared the differences, both good and bad, between the 1940, the 1995 and the 2005 Pride and Prejudice adaptions.
She was both incredibly knowledgeable and exceptionally funny as she discussed the various influences that shaped each version. She held our attention and, as far as I am concerned, could have gone on talking forever if we hadn’t been required to vacate the premises by a certain time.
Buxton Walkabout
When we returned to the hotel, I decided to take a walk through Buxton. Being a Sunday evening, the traffic was light–making it less likely I’d be hit crossing a street. Pedestrian traffic was almost non-existent as well, making the entire experience even more pleasurable.
Then back to the hotel to sleep.
14,419S/6.9M
Dave In Austenland 